heating cloudt t400?

[tkasch30]

i have some test 400 that is a cloudy. normally i would toss it but this stuff is reeeaaally potent stuff, i love it! can i put vial on pan, vent stopper and warm and shake it until it clears up? is it still safe to use? ive heard of this being done alot

 

[Wacker]

Is it cloudy with crystals on the vial or just cloudy?

 

[49ER]

Its safe id try also putting 1ml of TNE that might be enough to clear it for a few days then just heat it up.

 

[tkasch30]

Is it cloudy with crystals on the vial or just cloudy?

Wacker
just cloudy

 

[tkasch30]

Its safe id try also putting 1ml of TNE that might be enough to clear it for a few days then just heat it up.

49ER
what will the tne do?

 

[erikgearhead]

Easiest way to fix this:

turn coffee pot warmer plate on
set vial on warmer plate
walk away


check every 10-15 mins, swirl it around.

DO NOT VENT THE STOPPER.
-this is an outdated practice and is unnecessary. If you were heating the vial to 400-500 degrees, sure you would want to vent the vial but you'd probably also destroy whatever was in the vial to begin with.

Venting the vial with a pin creates a hole for bacteria to crawl in through.

Adding TNE could potentially fix it, due to the large amount of solvents used to produce TNE. You'd still probably have to heat it though. Just heat up the vial on a warmer plate and you're good to go.

 

[tkasch30]

will do! thank you! will it crash again you think?

 

[erikgearhead]

will do! thank you! will it crash again you think?

tkasch30
Probably. As the weather gets colder, it's gonna get worse and worse. Just try and keep it room temp (70) and just re-heat it as necessary.

 

[Kris Ruyak]

You claim it's potent and you love it,which means being test 400 its a longer Esther (ent.,cyp ~ maybe)so you have been using this for at least 2 wks to have felt enough to have grown a relationship,as long as it is not expired why fuck with a good thing /cloudy could be a million things !
Blast that shit Bro!

 

[tkasch30]

the other ones werent cloudy.

 

[tkasch30]

Probably. As the weather gets colder, it's gonna get worse and worse. Just try and keep it room temp (70) and just re-heat it as necessary.

erikgearhead

your advice please? heat it or use it cloudy? it sounds like a no brainer question to me

 

[Boltbreaker]

Heat and blast!

 

[GRIM]

i just nuke em :/

 

[GoPro]

If your scared to use it then send that shit my way lol. I'll by it off of you!! I got BA/BB here and a .22 filter!! I'll clean and redisolve it lol.

 

[krustus]

i had some sustanon that was doing that... i just wrap it in a heat pad on high for hour or more and it would hold for a little while.

like erik said don't overheat you can ruin your gear

 

[Tattz]

Yep. All good advice. Heat and enjoy.

 

[DGAF]

I agree and disagree on the venting post. Some gear gets cloudy from weather changes and produces moisture in the vial or moisture was already present in the vial. The only way to get moisture out is to heat it but it has to be vented to allow for the moisture to escape, if its not vented the moisture will not get out of the vial and the gear will clear up then cloud up again once the moisture turns from a vapor back into a liquid. There has to be a way for it to escape, this is why a lot of times when you heat gear to clear it and it clouds right back up shortly after, because the water didn't escape and is still in the vial. I have had gear that clouded up and I heated it only to have it cloud back up, and this was with venting but I didn't leave it on the heat long enough to get all the moisture out. You will see drops of water on and around the vent pin when you heat gear that has moisture in it. It take alittle bit of time but it will eventually all get out and the gear will clear up and stay clear and not have to be reheated. As far as bacteria getting in through the vent pin I understand where that is coming from but you have to understand that the gear has BA in it which is an antimicrobial meaning it kills all bacteria and prevents bacteria from growing in the vial. If you think about it a bottle of rubbing alcohol is opened and closed all the time and no bacteria gets in it when you take the whole cap off for minutes sometimes hours at a time, if you forget to put the cap back on, bacteria wont grow in anything with alcohol in it so the worry about bacteria getting in it is a valid worry but it isn't going to happen once the BA is in the gear. Its a good concern though but not going to happen. You can heat the gear with no vent pin but more than likely it will cloud back up shortly thereafter or you can vent it and get the moisture out and not have it cloud back up again. Another thing with not vening is you can run the possibility of cracking the vial if the pressure inside gets too great that it expands beyond the point where it needs to escape and cant, kinda like a car tire when its cold it looks low but after driving for awhile it heats up and the air inside expands and the tire looks fuller after driving.

Just a couple things to think about but in any case the gear is good clouded or not, just more watery clouded.

 

[erikgearhead]

I want to clear up some misinformation in this post - you are partially correct in most of what you said.

*weather changes won't produce moisture in the vial unless you are letting it in. (I.E. sticking a needle through the septa while the stopper is swill wet after swabbing, or if you inject air into your vial when the humidity is high)

*I agree, the only way to get moisture out would be to heat it. But just think...water isn't the only thing that evaporates. Solvents, oil, everything can evaporate.

If you have water in your gear, you are doing something wrong with your injection technique/sterility measures or the lab you use is not operating properly.

**Just because there is alcohol in something does not mean bacteria can not grow.
--A certain % will prevent bacterial growth, and a certain % will KILL bacteria. 2% BA is not enough to kill "all bacteria" like you are saying.

Yeah, a bottle of rubbing alcohol will stay sterile even though you open it multiple times. Rubbing alcohol is 70%-99% isopropyl alcohol...and the oils we inject are anywhere from 0.9%-3%. No where near a bottle of rubbing alcohol, you just can't compare the two.

If all I had to do to sterilize gear was put some BA in it, then why the hell do so many people get infections? Most UGL's overdose their BA as a safety precaution to begin with...

Another thing is that bacteria DOES get into the bottle of rubbing alcohol. They just die when they come in contact with the alcohol, leaving their corpses to float in the alcohol (or dissolve...) for lack of a better way of putting it. Same thing with your oils - even if the alcohol content is high enough to kill bacteria that you let in, there is still remnants of the dead bacteria in your oil which can lead to PIP and other issues.


You won't be able to create enough pressure in the vial to crack it just by heating it within the range we need to evaporate water or put crashed gear back into solution. If you make a vial explode with heat, your hormone was damaged long before that could happen anyway.

(I'm not pick on you, I'm just clearing up misinformation so people don't end up with infections)

I agree and disagree on the venting post. Some gear gets cloudy from weather changes and produces moisture in the vial or moisture was already present in the vial. The only way to get moisture out is to heat it but it has to be vented to allow for the moisture to escape, if its not vented the moisture will not get out of the vial and the gear will clear up then cloud up again once the moisture turns from a vapor back into a liquid. There has to be a way for it to escape, this is why a lot of times when you heat gear to clear it and it clouds right back up shortly after, because the water didn't escape and is still in the vial. I have had gear that clouded up and I heated it only to have it cloud back up, and this was with venting but I didn't leave it on the heat long enough to get all the moisture out. You will see drops of water on and around the vent pin when you heat gear that has moisture in it. It take alittle bit of time but it will eventually all get out and the gear will clear up and stay clear and not have to be reheated. As far as bacteria getting in through the vent pin I understand where that is coming from but you have to understand that the gear has BA in it which is an antimicrobial meaning it kills all bacteria and prevents bacteria from growing in the vial. If you think about it a bottle of rubbing alcohol is opened and closed all the time and no bacteria gets in it when you take the whole cap off for minutes sometimes hours at a time, if you forget to put the cap back on, bacteria wont grow in anything with alcohol in it so the worry about bacteria getting in it is a valid worry but it isn't going to happen once the BA is in the gear. Its a good concern though but not going to happen. You can heat the gear with no vent pin but more than likely it will cloud back up shortly thereafter or you can vent it and get the moisture out and not have it cloud back up again. Another thing with not vening is you can run the possibility of cracking the vial if the pressure inside gets too great that it expands beyond the point where it needs to escape and cant, kinda like a car tire when its cold it looks low but after driving for awhile it heats up and the air inside expands and the tire looks fuller after driving.

Just a couple things to think about but in any case the gear is good clouded or not, just more watery clouded.

DGAF

 

[DGAF]

I want to clear up some misinformation in this post - you are partially correct in most of what you said.

*weather changes won't produce moisture in the vial unless you are letting it in. (I.E. sticking a needle through the septa while the stopper is swill wet after swabbing, or if you inject air into your vial when the humidity is high)

*I agree, the only way to get moisture out would be to heat it. But just think...water isn't the only thing that evaporates. Solvents, oil, everything can evaporate.

If you have water in your gear, you are doing something wrong with your injection technique/sterility measures or the lab you use is not operating properly.

**Just because there is alcohol in something does not mean bacteria can not grow.
--A certain % will prevent bacterial growth, and a certain % will KILL bacteria. 2% BA is not enough to kill "all bacteria" like you are saying.

Yeah, a bottle of rubbing alcohol will stay sterile even though you open it multiple times. Rubbing alcohol is 70%-99% isopropyl alcohol...and the oils we inject are anywhere from 0.9%-3%. No where near a bottle of rubbing alcohol, you just can't compare the two.

If all I had to do to sterilize gear was put some BA in it, then why the hell do so many people get infections? Most UGL's overdose their BA as a safety precaution to begin with...

Another thing is that bacteria DOES get into the bottle of rubbing alcohol. They just die when they come in contact with the alcohol, leaving their corpses to float in the alcohol (or dissolve...) for lack of a better way of putting it. Same thing with your oils - even if the alcohol content is high enough to kill bacteria that you let in, there is still remnants of the dead bacteria in your oil which can lead to PIP and other issues.


You won't be able to create enough pressure in the vial to crack it just by heating it within the range we need to evaporate water or put crashed gear back into solution. If you make a vial explode with heat, your hormone was damaged long before that could happen anyway.

(I'm not pick on you, I'm just clearing up misinformation so people don't end up with infections)

erikgearhead

I respect your post brother, but if you look at bacteriostatic water, it is .9% BA and that is suffient to kill bacteria and keep it from growing inside, hence bacteriostatic.

I have seen vials cracked before from heating without a vent pin, it does happen and it is because the air pressure inside gets too high and thus breaks out. Im not saying it is going to happen everytime but it does happen and in my 15 years of being around gear I have seen it happen more than a nhandful of times which is enough to err on the side of caution and vent.

Oils and solutions do evaporate yes but they usually don't evaporate as fast as water will so heating it go get moisture out wont necessarily evaporate the solvents too. Some gear have high melting points and even after mixed with BA and BB it takes a high heat to melt them into solution so if the heat it takes to get water into vapor form isn't high enough to evaporate the oils and solvents.

Moisture is in the air everywhere and it will get into the vials even before they are capped unless you use a larimar flow hood or already sealed vials then moisture is in the vials already but most of the time not in high enough concentrations to cause a problem. Most ugls use flip top caps which means they are using open vials so yes moisture in the air will get in the vials even if you live in the desert and most do not use flow hoods, so injection techniques and sterility measures are not the culprit, if they were then every ugl would be to blame cause most of them do the best they can as far as sterility measures short of owning the proper equipment used by pharma companies.

I will stand behind you on bacteria being present in the gear dead if it did get in. But chances of that happening are very slim from a vent pin and would be more opt to happen during the bottling phase, assuming they are not in a sterile room under a flow hood with proper ventilation in which case it wouldn't happen during bottling.

2% BA is more than enough to kill bacteria and keep it from growing, when it was overdosed is when it was 5% way back when, but now even at 2% pharm companies will say that is overdosed and .9% is all that is needed to sufiently protect you from bacteria.


Im not picking either but I take it from someone who has gone through the pharmacy program and knows all about this stuff.